MIG JIMENEZ

Tiger I 1/48 Winter camo "Part 5" THE END

2012-01-10T19:20:00.012+01:00

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Finally the model is finished. After add the mud and other small effects, it is ready in case we want to make a small diorama.Is very important to see the nice effect made by the acumulated earth in the horizontal surface in the upper hull. It help to create contrast and bring down the excesive white brightness.

Ok, let's go to finish the model. Some steps before. use a graphite pencil to make the metal effect in the MG ring. This useful tool can help us to give a metal look to many details. Keep it sharp.

The different tools was painted using Vallejo colors. Paint some shadows and some highlights to create a volume in the tools and accesories. You can add some dust effects with pigments or washes to adapt the tools to the rest of the weathered vehicle.

The fire extinguiser is really small. But I was able to paint a mini label with a fine brush and vallejo colors. Also I painted it with Dark Yellow, like the old one was remplaced by a new one.

The general look of the tools is good enought for this scale.

now is time to make the dust, earth and mud. This time, I have return to my old technque of pigments, but this time with the new AK pigments, which is a bit different than my old ones. The colors is also differnet. I was tired of the same shades so, the new ones are more ...neutral, less bright. Here you can find the whole range, limited, which means that it is the whole collection, just the basic stuff to avoid get crazy looking among 1 million colors. Now than the actual techniques is not only based in pigments, could be a good alternative these colors if we want to something ocasional, like in my case right now.

You can use the Pigment fixer or just White Spirit to fix the pigments. if you are not sure how will be the look, try frist the White Spirit and later the Fixer Glue. Pigments fixed with White Spirit can be removed more or less easily. Apply the different shades of pigments and then, use a brush with Fixer to humidify the surface.

Try to concentrate the dust around the details and use dar colors for the most hiden areas, around the details or turret, etc...
When it is dry, the look will be like this one. You can repeat the process as much as you want to increase the effect of acumulated earth or dust.

And now we will amke the mud with the actual method, using the enamel products from AK and plaster. Even if the Fresh Mud color is a bit satin, we can add Wet Effect Fluid to the mix to get a more shiny effect in the mud. Use an old brush to make the mix.

Low density mix of mud, this means, with more Enamel color and less plaster, will provide us smaller dots of mud when we make of splashed mud. Use an airbrush to project air over the brush loaded of mud mix. It will generate a nice splash over the front hull.

Use the same mix to apply mud in the tracks.

And after it is dry, apply the Dark Steel pigment to create the metal effect in the external parts fo the links. If it is not enought shiny, you always can mix this powder with Humbrol 11 (silver) and apply the mix with dry brush over the surface.

Well, the model is finished. We can add stowage or more details if we want , but I prefer to leave it clean of stuff to allow see the effects over the model.

I hope you have enjoy this big step by step. remeber that you have another 4 chapters explaining the whole process since the begining. if you have any doubt or comment, please, feel free to post here. Thank you very much for watching!

Mig Jimenez

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Tiger I 1/48 Winter camo "Part 4" LINKS

2012-01-03T22:55:00.006+01:00

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Let's go to paint the spare links today.
Use tape to keep the links in position to be painted with Airbrush. Use a dark brown color, Tamiya or Mr Hobby could be perfect. Then, using the range of Lifecolor to make rust, paint different shades in some links.

As soon as it is dry, apply a coat of Worn Effects to create small chips.

Now apply the white color, Tamiya one mixed with a 40% of Gaianaotes lacquer thinner. Don't apply a heavy coat, just a little soft. With heavy coats is more diffciult to create small chipping.

After you paint it, use water and a flat hard brush to remove part of the white paint. before, you made humidify the surface with a little water, and wait few seconds until the white paint get fragil and ready to work.

Now glue the links to the turret with Super Glue. the rest of the weathering will be done with them in place.

use differnet shades of washes and Streaking grime colors and repeat the same proces like in the rest of the tank, but less intense.

You can repaint some chips if you don't like too much the look. Also, you can add some Streaking Rust and finally some highlight with white oil to refoirce the contrast.

With few steps the look is very realistic. Not needed too much steps and could be more than anought for a scale like 1/48 or 1/35.

Compare the size of the spare links with my fingers....

...and see how effective can be this technique in a close view.

Do you like it? I hope. The next chapter will be the last one for sure. Just mud and dust and final touches. But I thought that this subject deserved a chapter for it self.

Thank you very much one more time for follow this blog.

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Tiger I 1/48 Winter camo "Part 3"

2012-01-01T23:00:00.009+01:00

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HAPPY NEW YEAR 2012 to all of you!!

The best way to start a new year is making models, so, here my contribution to this new year. This is the 3th chapter of the whole painting process of a winter Tiger I in 1/48th scale. If you haven't see the other two, please, read first the chapter I and the chapter II.
Now is time for chipping and oil paint effects.

We start using the dark bromw 70922 from vallejo. It's a good color for paint dark metal chips. Use a very fine brush, new one and sharp.

Start doing small dots, and lines...very small, and keep gorwing it as much as you want.

Treat each detail in a different way. Example, more intense chipping in some parts, while others remain more new. That contrast will help to the model to give bigger realism.

The oil paints is always a important step in each weathering. This paint is very flexible, easy to blend and colorfull. The oils can help us to give contrast, deep, shadows, and much more effects to our models. In this case, we will use few basic colors to create a contrast effect in some mudguards and some horizontal areas. Maybe, in anotehr kind of subject we can use more oils, or less. We must adapt this technique to each model and evoirement.

Use the white color to reiforce the white camo. Use a medium round brush for this task.

Apply the color only in one side of the mudguard section.

Just in the next section, apply a grey-brown color.

Clean the brush or take a new one and with a litle White Spirit stump the color.

See the result. The transition is soft, but each color, both , the white and brown, are gradually more intense to the union of both mudguards sections. It create contrast, a subtile and nice visual effect to give volume to our model. You can use this technique not only in the mudguards, but in any other part of your model, like panels, hatches, engine compartiments and much more. Just selct the apropiated color for each subject. In this case I used white because the base color is winter camo.

Another example. This time we use a dirty grey to represent the acumulated dirt over the horizontal surfaces, like around the turret ring.

One more time, paint and stump with a clean brush and a little White Spirit.

Use the white Oil color to make the highlights in the winter camo. After the washes adn streaking effects, the look of our model will be a little dark, not as white as we can expect of a winter tank. Now is time to bring to the life the white camo adding small dots of white color in some areas. Don't over do it and be RANDOM with this process. And of course, stump or blend the color to make it softer and natural.

Ok, another step is already done. Very slowly, our model is getting contrast and tonal variation. This is very important in this kind of vehicles, to avoid the monotonie and boring surfaces. Note how you can see the original camo under the winter camo, faded and damage by the envoirements and elements. The chipping is adapted to the scale. These ones must be small and not excesive. And the new shades that we have give to our model will give volume and a rich surface. Now is time to paint all small details before we made the mud and dust and the final effects.
In the next chapter, I will explain how to give the final touches to the model. We will work with the spare links around the turret, painted also in winter camo. We will add the earth, mud, oils and grease and much more. Keep tunned and thank you very much for read this. I hope you like the progress of this small example of a winter tank. It is really easy and simple if you follow these steps.

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Tiger I 1/48 Winter camo "Part 2"

2011-12-13T23:02:00.009+01:00

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Welcome again to the second part of this interesting article about how to paint a Tiger I with a winter wash. In the preview chapter I explained how to use the Worn Effect fluid to make a Camo with chipping. Now we will use it again to make the winter wash.

Apply a nice coat of Worn Effects fluid over your vehicle. remeber that it is water based, it is clean, no bad smell and easy to use, just pour it in your airbrush and apply a coat.

After a couple of minutes, apply your white color. tamita will work very well in this case. Note that I applied a soft and random layer of white color. Not too thick.

Now we can start scratching the surface. Apply a little water over it and start moving your brush over the surface until see that the paint come off. It is very easy.

See how random is it. Some areas can be very damaged and others almost new.

Now is time for the washes. The color AK 066 Wash for Africa vehicles will be a good color also for winter vehicles. It is a bit neutral and was designed for light sand colors.

Apply a drop over the lines, joins, details and rivets. Don't worry if you are not accurate. We will clean the excess later. be sure your base is SATIN, and NOT FLAT. this is very important to avoid the expansion by capilarity.

Now using a clean brush and thinner, we will clean the excess of wash. The wash color must be dry. I usually wait for 3 or 5 minutes after apply the wash.

This process is very easy and simple. if we follow the rules (satin surface, controlled application, let it dry and clean the excess) we will obtain always a good result.

Let's go for a funny step: Winter Streaking grime

This technique is very simple. Just draw fine vertical lines in the vertical or inclinated surfaces. Make some of then shorter than others.

After it is dry for a couple of minutes, use a flat clean brush with a little Thinner and stump the lines with vertical motions. Don't try blend the color at once, but in several attemps.

You must get a look like this:

If you reomve to much, just repeat the proces after few minutes.

In the next chapter we will see how to make the metal chips and we will work with oils too.
Thanks for take your time to read this and I hope you like it.

Don't be shy and post your comments or feedback. I am working on this right now, so....your suggestions can help me to be focus in this or that subject or problem.

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Tiger I 1/48 Winter camo

2011-12-08T23:03:00.004+01:00

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Hello friends.

I know that I was too much time in silence but was because a good reason. i was making the new FAQ2. And now that it is ready and printed, I can back again to apint models. I have some different projects in my workbench and one of them is this little Tiger I out of box that I build time ago. Now I ampainting it in winter camo, using the Chipping fluid (the soft one) to make the chipping. I will try to post the whole step by step so stay tunned.

First I painted the dark yellow, just plane without modulation or other effects.

The worn effects fluid was applied inmediatly after the base color and once it is dry I painted the other two color camo with an airbursh.

I used a small plain brush to humidify the surface and scratch the camo colors. The zimmerit texture helped me in this task.

Now I have ready the base for the second step: the winter was , also very damaged. Ahh, right now we must apply a satin varnish coat to protect the preview work.

In the next chapter I will explain the winter wash camo step by step.

Thank you for watching.

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WHY NOT??? WHEEL MASKS!

2011-07-22T11:49:00.002+02:00

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Few weeks ago I was thinking about this new product. I have seen it in internet since long time ago, but reciently I was thinking seriusly about it. I always painted the wheels by brush, I means , the rubber. It is always a hard work, specially when you have a panther tank in your hand, or even a PzIV. I am always looking for fast tips and technqiues, and I thought this stuff from QUICK WHEEL, can help me. So...i decided to take some of these masks, and by the way, some of their new resin wheels for some vehicles.

I just wanted to try and I was not sure how is the quality of this stuff. But when I recived it (the service is just superb) I was shock with the quality. This tool is very professional, made in hard plastic and have a special design that help to the modeller to mask the whels easily and all of them at once. The plastic wheels fit perfectly in the holes , and them you can paint with airbrush the center of the wheels with the tank color. previesly you must paint the whole wheel in rubber color!!

In few seconds you paint the rubber of all your wheels....and the result is just PERFECT!!!!!!!

I cannot say anymore except that it must be necessary for me since now. the important thing is that the mask can be used forever in all your future models.
I recomend you this new stuff.

You can get it directly form this site:

QUICK WHEEL

I hope upload a short step by step very soon.

Thank you.

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MODULATION AND WEATHERING

2011-06-16T00:11:00.009+02:00

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In the last months I have made some trips to otehr countries to make some paint demostrations. the last ones was in Japan and France. In both places I decided to make some experiments of weathering which I show here finally. The experiment consist in paint the whole tank with Color Modulation and then, weather just half tank. In this way, the people can see how the weathering is affected by the Color Modulation base, and then, they can understand how this technique works.

This is the only way to demostrate that an exagerated modulated base color, can be good enought to be a good base for a weathering process. As you can see now in the next photos, all high contrast get softer after the weathering.

This E75 from Trumpeter was painted completly in around 12 hours, including the primer and Color Modulation, plus the rest of steps like streaking effects, dust, mud, rust, chipping and much more. The main purpouse of these exampels was to explain to the modeller that we can achieve a nice look in few time, using some specific techniques, and avoiding another ones. But one more time I must say very clear that this is just one alternative, and we can choose it or not, according of what we need or want for our model. Even my self I use sometimes very complex process which need many weeks or months, and other times I use fast techniques to paint a model in one day or even one hour!!!

And...why I push the fast techniques? because I think that almost a big part of the modelling comunity have not enought time for modelling and all that they want to do is to achieve a nice look in short time to get motivated in the modelling. I doesn't means that this must be the way for everybody, but just that this is a way for those who need save time and finish something as soon as possible.

Here the results in the E75 made for Paris demo:

Color modulation was applied in the whole model in a couple of hours.

Half model was masked and then only one part was weathered. Note how the high contrast with the Color Modulation get soft after the weathering.

The Modulation helps to give more dramatism to certain areas or highlight other ones. We can bring the attention to the espectator to some areas or others , always thanks to the Modulation. This could be really important in vehicles made for dioramas.

As you can see, the weathering will make dark the surface, so, some parts of the base color must be very light.

the green camo was applied using the hairspray technique. This method will help us to create a very chipped green patches with a very damage look. The dark areas of the green camo was created thanks to blue oil paint, ochre and brown.

Note how the Streaking effects in the side armor plate is very random and unregular. You can see also some chips created by hairspray around the hatches.

The splashed mud was created mixing some Ak products with plaster, projecting air with an airbrush over a brush loaded of mud! 5 or even 6 layers was applied to create that texture.

As you can see in the turret side, there are yellow and blue areas in the green camo. It was made with oils, blending it with white spirit. It helps to the Color Modulation and give a very colorfull look to our model.

Even if the model was not finished, we can see that the look is enought good after paint the chips and rust streaks.

Here we can see the other example that I made in japan. It was also painted in around 12 hours, but the color modulation was painted before the demo. I used the same method and techniques in both cases. Note how the dark areas in the side rear plate is destinate to the splashed light mud.

A look of my JadTiger just after the color modulation was applied.

But, what is the Color Modulation? It is Real?

Well, since Adam and me developed that technique some years ago, I have read millions of comments about it, in forums, webs, magazines. Seems that now everybody know everything about this style. Some people say that this is just art, other say that it is shit and unrealistic, other say that is fantasy.... of course there are many smart comments talking about the light concept, about 3D computer games and many other stuff. To me, all of these fights, comments and discursions are not interesting for me because is hard to explain to the whole world what is the modulations or why it was developed. And, anyway, I doens't take care what is the modulations for each one of you. the ONLY important thing is that people who have used the modulation with good results, feelt happy with what they made, and that's all. But also I feel happy when I see other modellers using another techniques and styles. Each person must choose his "tools" to paint his models. Some people can use dry brush, anothers preshading, another ones just acrylics, and another just modulation. The important point is that we must enjoy our models and our hobby. There are too much fights and wars in the world, and we don't want more garbage in our garden. We want arrive to our home, get confortable, open a drink and sit down in front our workbench to enjoy our hobby!. So...I don't take care how others think the modelling must be. Today I will paint my model with modulation, and after tomorrow, I will paint another model with classic techniques.

And...is the Color Modulation realistic?...

of course....NO! It is just an interpretation of the real thing and we use the light , shadows and contrast like a way of expresion. In fact, the WHOLE MODELLING is FAKE, not real. is just plastic! And the mud that we add in our tanks...is FAKE TOO, is just paint with plaster.

I have fun when I see a modeller that say: " My model is very realistic because I painted it with the real color from the factory!!!

Oh my God, what stupid thing! he use the real color of the tank over an amount of plastic parts...PLASTIC!!!! So...where is the reality? the reality is just in the real things, and the rest is just reproductions, copies, or replics of the real one. In defintily...just interpretations made with other materials.

But the same stupid thing is when I see that the same modeller feel proud of his very realistic chips....which was just PAINTED!!!!!!!!!!! LOL! So, if that modeller want realism, why not he build the model in steel and them paint the tank with the real color, and then he just go around the stree with his tank, crossing roads, water, mud and crossing some bonsay forest? he will get realistc mud, and scratches, right?

Dear reader....if you are reading this, forget about reality and just have fun with your hobby. because, even if we try to search the reality, we always will find a noob judge who will tell us that that color is wrong!

Here I post some pictures of some models made by defferent modellers, using the Color Modulation like a way of expresion. This is just a small example and you can find nowday dozens of other great works!

Finally, I would like to add that for me , the modelling is like a Hollywood movie: I like to enjoy it, I want to have fun and I want dream during 90 or 120 minuts. This make me happy. But if a model doens't make me happy, even if it is super realistic, then, that model have not value to me. Is just BORING!

Thanks

Mig Jimenez

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VIP PEOPLE IN JAPAN

2011-05-10T07:00:00.003+02:00

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While I continue my trip in Japan, I would like to share with you some photos of some important people in Japan. There are much more, but I will try to upload them as soon as I can back to Spain. I was luckly to meet the next people, some of them for frist time, and another is old friends like Mashahiro Doi.

Goshima san is the manager of KIYA shop, in Tokio. He organize the best model tank competition in Japan and he is a great guy! Go to OGIKUBO and visit his shop if you have the oportunity to visit Tokio.

Makoto Takaishi is one of the bigger influence for many modellers nowdays. I met him in ART BOX Headquarters in CHIYODA area. I was happy to meet with him and talk a bit in his office. He is very talented and very smart.

During my meeting with Makoto Takaishi, Kashiwagi san, chief editor of Armor Modelling helped us to have a fluid comunication in English. Makoto cannot speak english. Our conversation was very interesting talking about different styles of modelling, techniques and much more. I would like to talk more with them, but not time enought in one day. Was a great experience for me to stay with they and I give want to give them a BIG THANKS!

Kanenko sensei is one of my favorite modellers in Japan also. He is very friendly, always smiling and he is a great modeller. His works is superb and very original.

My dear friend Lincoln Wright. He is almost half japanese, but he is from Australia. He work for Machinenkrieger company (the futuristic military robots) and he paint these stuff extraordinary well. He speak a perfect japanese , so he helped me a lot in our meetings!

Goshima san and Eiki san , from Yellow Submarine shop in Akihabara area, Tokio. Both of them are funny guys, great people. I will miss them!

Well, that s all by now. I will try to upload more stuff very soon. Japan is one of the most important countries in the world about modelling, and we need to learn a lot from them. For them, the modelling is something very important, but their modelling philosophy is even more interesting for us, western modellers. I really recomend to EVERYBODY to visit Japan someday, because your modelling life will change for sure.

Domo Arigato Nihhon, thank you very much all of you friends!

Mig Jimenez

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VK1602 Leopard, 1945

2011-04-26T23:40:00.005+02:00

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I finished yesterday this new model from HobbyBoss. My friend Carlos Cuesta made it for me, and I painted it. Even if this tank waas designed in 1941, I wanted to place it in any forest in germany, in October of 1945 (yes, another what if)

It was painted with Luftwaffe colors, inspired in a modern Russian 2S3 with more or less the same camo pattern.

Thank you for watching it.

Mig

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CATERPILLAR ENGINE

2011-04-24T23:23:00.005+02:00

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Hello friends.
long time without update my blog, because I was really busy, making some trips and finishing some models. During the next days, I will upload other models. Today, just a small bit...a Caterpillar engine that I painted for one of my friends. Don't ask me for the scale, because we don't know it. It a old ERTL kit without box, and we have not idea of the scale, but is very huge!
I hope you like it.

Here some step by step of the process. Nothing extraordinary, just the classic techniques.

Thank you for watching

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Africa Korps DIANA

2010-11-24T12:06:00.007+01:00

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Hello one more time. After a very busy November month, I finished the beutiful DIANA kit. I was very delayed with it, because the constructions phase was a little tired for me (I like very simple kits), but I am happy with the rsult because it is a impresive vehicle. It is out of box, and painted with 2 layers of hairspray technique overlaped. I used here the new AK interactive Africa Dust Effects, and definitly it is my favorite color, because give me a very realuistic dust effect for desert vehicles. Finally, I want to thank to David Grummitt for his support with this project. I hope you like it and any comment is welcome as always.

Thank you very much

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Opel Blitz Out of Box

2010-10-30T17:51:00.010+02:00

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I finished this Opel 2 days ago. Just like a base for weathering effects and play with the mud and streaking effects. Is out of box, no PE , no extra details, just a Tarp that I made long time ago, ratiator cover and wheels. This one supose tow a Flak, but of course, no time to make the flak.
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Termine este Opel hace dos dias. solamente como base para hace effectos de pintura y jugar con el barro y los efectos escurridos. Esta de caja, sin fotograbado, sin detalles extras...solo el toldo que hize hace tiempo, el cubre radiador y las ruedas. Se supone que debe de tirar de un cañon flak, pero no me dio tiempo a hacerlo.

I hope you like it.

Thanks

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AGONCILLO MODEL SHOW (La Rioja) SPAIN

2010-10-11T16:22:00.005+02:00

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Arriba: Cartel del concurso de agoncillo 2010. 15, 16 y 17 de Octubre.
Debajo, el cartel de "hermanamiento" con el club ISE FLYING VENUS de Japon, donde anuncian su concurso:

Llevo mucho tiempo sin actualizar mi blog, pero debo decir que he estado muy ocupado. Entre los concursos de Folkestone y el de Milan no he tenido mucho tiempo libre, y entre viaje y viaje he seguido pintando maquetas y haciendo otras cosas. Ahora tan solo queria actualizr aqui la información del concurso de Agoncillo, un entrañable sitio en donde siempre me he sentido muy agusto, quizas por su ubicacion en un pequeño castillo mediaval. Agoncillo esta a unos 10 kilometros de Logroño, en la Rioja, y es muy facil llegar. El concurso se hace dentro del castillo y siempre hay numerosas tiendas para comprar maquetas o accesorios. Este año hare otra vez una charla demostracion de pintura sobre vehiculos oxidados y abandonados, aunque tambien asistire al concurso de uniformes (mi otro hobby, el airsoft). Para todos aquellos interesados en algfuno de esos temas, os recomiendo venir sin dudarlo. Ademas, Logroño es una de las ciudades de españa con más encanto para comer y beber, para ir de pinchos por sus calles y disfrutar de excelentes vinos. Pero ademas, la gente de aqui es muy agradable, sencilla y muy hospitalaria.

Este año vendran muchas personas interesantes, como es mi amigo Shigehito Takeuchi o Iain Hamilton, que tambien daran un par de conferencias.

Espero que os animeis a venir y estar al menos un dia del fin de semana a aqui, como minimo el Sabado, que será el dia fuerte.

Un saludo

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SMALL SCALE 222

2010-08-10T12:20:00.003+02:00

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Who said that modelling is expensive and take too much time? I just made this Sdkfz 222 few days ago, in only 1 hour and half. It cost only 10 Euros and the detail is superb.
Sometimes, to do this kind of models is very refreshing, and for 1 hour you forget the complex aftermarkets, the complex details and big scales. Highly recommended.

Ok, ok, now is time to paint it and will be more than 1 hour. Ah, the brand is ICM.

Mig Jimenez

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MY WORK STUFF, WEATHERING ARTICLES

2010-08-05T19:01:00.004+02:00

Hello friends.
Yesterday I finished several articles for AK-interactive, the new brand which I am working for.
I am so happy to do this kind of work again, because show techniques is what I like most. I made a blog like this one, because I think that is much better than to design a new web site. In a blog, you can search what you need by key words, or even by Reference Number. I have recived many letters the last days asking me how to use the AK products and better than send individual replies is to do this new blog for everybody. Everything related to AK products will be published in that blog, and my general and personal stuff will be published here as always. I hope you like the new space and don't be shy to ask or propose new ideas or articles. Please, vist it and let me know your thoughts.

AK-interactive blog, click here.

During this month I will be working in the next DVD. I just want to paint another model to make it more complete. So...no more vacations for me this year (well, maybe few days... who know!!!)

Thank you all of you and please, excuseme if I haven't reply your email. I got many everydays and I cannot reply as faster as I would like. If you have any urgent question or something prioritary, say that in your message tittel, so...when I check them again I can remeber the subject of each one and give the priority to the urgent ones.

Painting a BT7 without Pigments!

2010-08-02T10:56:00.009+02:00

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It seems to be that lately I am looking for alternative ways for many techniques that we habitually use. In the begining I painted a model using only acrylic paints. The PzII was an example. Then the Panther II were made without oils. And now, I have painted this BT7 without pigments. It can seem simple, but at the moment all modellers use pigments regularly, and it can be complicated to make dust or mud without them. But I like to know that we can make the same effects with alternative techniques, because not all the people have the same conditions. There are people that cannot use enamel paintings because health problems. Recently I have known to a US modeller that cannot use their hands to make scale models, and he should make everything using his mouth. Can you imagine to your self in a similar situation? For this friend from Michigan, it is almost impossible to use the airbrush. It could be very interesting to develop new techniques where it is not necessary that tool. Anyway, I like to prove and to make new things. Is easy to be comfortable and to make always the same things, but that, sooner or later is boring, and it is not my style. This BT7 has been made for the Japanese magazine ARMOR MODELLING. I hope you like it. Any comment is always welcome.

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Parece ser que últimamente estoy buscando caminos alternativos para muchas técnicas que usamos habitualmente. Primero pinté una maqueta sólo usando pinturas acrílicas. EL PzII fue un ejemplo. Después el Panther II se hizo sin oleos. Y ahora, he pintado este BT7 sin pigmentos. Puede parecer sencillo, pero actualmente todos los modelistas utilizan pigmentos con regularidad, y puede ser complicado hacer polvo o barro sin ellos. Pero me gusta saber que podemos hacer los mismos efectos con tecnicas alternativas, porque no todas las personas tienen las mismas condiciones. Hay personas que por problemas de salud no pueden utilizar pinturas esmalte. Recientemente he conocido a un modelista americano que no puede usar su manos para hacer maquetas, y debe hacer todo usando la boca. ¿Podeis imaginaros a vosotros mismos en una situación similar? Para este amigo de Michigan, es casi imposible utilizar el aerógrafo. Podría ser muy interesante desarrollar nuevas técnicas en donde no sea necesario esa herramienta. De todas maneras, me gusta probar y hacer cosas nuevas. Es fácil acomodarse y hacer siempre lo mismo, pero eso, tarde o temprano es aburrido, y no es mi estilo. Este BT7 se ha realizado para la revista japonesa ARMOR MODELLING. Espero que os guste y cualquier comentario es bien recibido. Garcias.

The rear mud splashes was made mixing plaster and AK mud and dust products.

Make a mix of the two products in a small recipent, and project air with your airbrush over a brush with the mixture.

First stages of the model, just with some washes and oils.

Maybe a will make a vignette for this BT7, but not now. I must paint the DIANA Bronco.

Thanks

Mig Jimenez

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THE DVD FINALLY FOR SALE!!

2010-06-21T18:06:00.003+02:00

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Hello friends!

After a long wait, finally, the Vallejo DVD is for sale. I don't sell it by my self, by one of my close friend is selling it in his shop. So, if you need pick up one on line, you can do it here with total confidence. Also, if you want your copy signed, I can do it without any problem because I am living close to the shop.

Of course, I hope you like it. Click over the picture to go to the shop:

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Finalmente, después de una larga espera, el DVD de vallejo sobre técnicas con acrílicos ya está a la venta. Yo no lo vendo por mi mismo, pero uno de mis mejores amigos si lo vende en su tienda de Logroño. Si deseas adquirir uno por internet, puedes hacerlo aqui con total confianza. Además, si quieres tu copia firmada, no hay ningún problema porque vivo muy cerca de la tienda.

Por supuesto, espero que te guste. Pincha sobre la imagen para ir a la tienda (también esta en castellano, claro):

The shop: http://www.ibroxmodelismo.com
Thank you very much

Mig Jimenez

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GERMAN STUFF under USA FLAG

2010-06-14T21:42:00.003+02:00

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Well, not only USA FLAG. Also, many german vehciles was used by other armies, like the French, Russia, Bulgaria, Polish....
This small selection of great vehicles under new management show how interesting could be a model painted in a different way. I hope it can be something inspirational for your next model. I already made mine, the Panther II under this new blog entry. Mine was a "what if", but you can see that the real thing is not so far from what I imagined.

Enjoy

MIG Jimenez

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"WHAT IF" Panther II, Under US Army!

2010-06-14T11:29:00.006+02:00

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I remember to have read in a book (maybe from Albert Speer) where supposedly, a cracked German government's part, wanted to force an alliance with the United States to fight against the communism. In fact, some of those Germans attempted without success the alliance until the last days of the Reich. It is also said that, the Germans facilitated and even favored subtly the allied advance in the eastern front, to be able to force them to fight against the Soviets. For Hitler has been a perfect solucción to avoid the destruction of his empire, but fortunately, the Americans didn't have any intention of allying with the Germans in a suicide.

This Panther is an example of what could have been if German and Americans have united their efforts to stop the Soviet locomotive. Surely, the Americans had put to their service some of the best German weapons. The German factories would have renewed the production to increase the number of tanks and vehicles in the battle field, but mainly to increase the quality and to take advantage of the proximity of the production place. Maybe, the Americans have carried out small changes, perhaps in the camuflage, the identifications, or secondary armament or radios.

My Panther II have an American radio and a German one too, to be able to communicate with all type of vehicles. Also, they have applied some stains of American green color on the German original camuflage, a little worn away.

The most important thing of everything is the infinite possibilities of combinations to make dioramas and ideas under the concept of that possible alliance. I hoep you like this "what if" history".

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Yo recuerdo haber leido en un libro (quizas de Albert Speer) donde supuestamente, una parte del resquebrajado gobierno alemán, deseaba forzar una alianza con los Estados Unidos para luchar contra el comunismo. De hecho, algunos de esos alemanes intentaron sin éxito la alianza hasta los últimos dias del Reich. También se dice que los alemanes facilitaron e incluso favorecieron sutilmente el avance aliado en el frente del este, para poder así obligarlos a luchar contra los sovieticos. Para Hitler hubiese sido una solucción perfecta para evitar la destrucción de su imperio, pero afortunadamente, los americanos no tenian ninguna intención de aliarse con los alemanes en un suicidio.

Este Panther es un ejemplo de lo que podia haber sido si alemanes y americanos hubiesen unido sus esfuerzos para parar la locomotora sovietica. Seguramente, los americanos hubieran puesto a su servicio algunas de las mejores armas alemanas. Las fábricas alemanas habrian reanudado la producción para aumentar el número de tanques y vehículos en el campo de batalla, pero sobre todo para aumentar la calidad y aprovecharse de la cercania del lugar de producción. Quizás, los americanos hubiesen realizado pequeños cambios, tal vez en el camuflage, las identificaciones, o armamento secundario o radios. Mi Panther II tiene una radio americana y una alemana, para poder comunicarse con todo tipo de vehículos. Además, han aplicado unas manchas de verde americano sobre el camuflage original alemán, un poco desgastado.

Lo más importante de todo son las infinitas posibilidades de combinaciones para hacer dioramas e ideas bajo el concepto de aquella posible alianza.

Ahh, I need to finish the figure. I am painting it, so, I will post again with the figure update.

Mig Jimenez

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LA MODULACIÓN Y LA MADRE QUE LA PARIÓ

2010-05-20T21:15:00.003+02:00

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(To all ENglish readers, sorry it is just a tread about a spanish forum and hard to traslate in english, my apologies)

Como diriamos aquí en españa. Pongo esta nueva actualizacion porque solo hago referencia aun sitio en castellano, pero si no hablase castellano, haria todo lo posible por aprender este gran idioma solo para leer lo que esta pasando en PzNET. Realmente podria aprovechar este espacio que me brinda la gratuidad de internet para poner unos cuantos acentos y comas en tan valioso documento modelistico, pero por primera vez en mi vida, quiero ser tan solo un espectador más.
No voy a dar mi opinion ni me voy a posicionar. Pero tan sólo diré que Javier de Luelmo ha encendido una bolsa de gas que por supuesto no sabia que existia. Los efectos de las quemaduras se veran en los proximos años.

En cualquier caso, el resultado de tanta opinion y tanto experto en la materia, hace que quiera recomendar a todo el mundo leer todos los post y respuestas. Me parece muy constructivo desde todos los puntos de vista. Eso si....no me gustaria tener a Javier de Luelmo como jurado (lo siento chico, primero cayó Baltasar Garzon y ahora tu, no te lo tomes a mal, aunque tus maquetas me siguen gustando. Te lo digo con cariño!!) ;-)

En fin, aqui os dejo el entretenimiento de la semana, calidad de la buena en debates modelisticos:

http://panzernet.com/foros/showthread.php?t=4127

Saludos

MIG

PD: Por cierto, que a fecha 23 Mayo 2010, el asunto ya lleva casi 6000 visitas y una cantidad de respuestas impresionante. Por el interes creado, creo que Muerta, lo que se dice Muerta...no está la modulación. Creo que más vivita que nunca gracias al empujon de Javier de Luelmo. Espero que no pronostique el Mundial de Africa. ;-) Eso si, está sacando lo mejor de cada modelista que le está respondiendo. Eso hay que agradecerlo.

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MISSING THE LINK

2010-05-09T00:36:00.007+02:00

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I have been some time offline, very busy and without enough time to upgrade my blog. But during the night I have found some minutes to publish an article about how to paint rusty links. The method is very laborious, but very simple. Although the final result worth the effort. Thanks to all you. I hope you like it.

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He estado algún tiempo desconectado, muy ocupado y sin tiempo suficiente para actualizar mi blog. Pero durante la noche he encontrado unos minutos para publicar un artículo sobre cómo pintar eslabones oxidados. El método es muy laborioso, pero muy sencillo. Aunque el resultado final merece el esfuerzo. Gracias a todos vosotros. Espero que os guste.

Use different Tamiya colors to paint each link.

Utiliza diferentes colores de tamiya para pintar cada eslabon.

With a sponge an the Dust And Rust set colors from LIFECOLOR, we will make some kind of chipping effects as you can see below.

Con una esponja y el set de LIFECOLOR Dust and Rust, pintaremos los primeros efectos de desconchones en la superficie como puedes ver en las fotos de abajo.

Also, with the same variete of colors we will apply some rust washes.

También, con la misma variedad de colores aplicaremos unos lavados de óxido.

To create a variety of shades, we will paint in faded green some links, like remains of old green color when the tank was painted with green camoflage.

Para crear más variedad de tonos, pintaremos en verde claro algunos eslabones, como restos de verde antiguo cuando el tanque fue pintado en camuflaje verde.

Now we will add the pigments. In the left (below), you can see links without pigments. Right ones with pigments.

Ahora añadiremos los pigmentos. In la izquierda, debajo, podeis ver eslabones sin pigmentos y en la izquierda con pigmentos.

Add randomly different rust colors with a brush...

Aplica de manera aleatoria diversos colors de óxido...

And then...damp them with a drop of turpentine.

Y después humedecelos con unas gotas de aguarrás.

In some links, we will paint dark areas with enamel colors as you can see in the picture below.

En algunos eslabones, podemos pintar zonas oscuras coin colores esmales como puedes observar debajo.

Now, add dust and light rust pigments again.This is the dusting phase. And as before damp them with clean turpentine in a way to fix the pigments.

Ahora, añade colores de polvo y óxido claro de pigmento otra vez. Esta es la fase de empolvado. Igual que antes, humedece la superficie con aguarras limpio para fijarlos.

Finally, we wil repeat the sponge chipping, but this time using very dark brown-rust colors.

Finalmente, repetiremos los desconchones de esponja, pero esta vez usando colores marron oxido muy oscuro.

The spare links used is in 1/16th scale, but you can apply the same technique in smaller scales with no problem. I think that the look is enought nice to decorate our tanks.

Los eslabones usados son en escala 1/16, pero puedes aplicar la misma tecnica en escalas más pequeñas sin problemas. Creo que el aspecto final es suficientemente atractivo para decorar nuestros tanques.

Thanks for take your time reding this.

Gracias por leer este articulo.

MIG

1/24 Tasca PzII, KURKS

2010-03-23T11:43:00.005+01:00

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Recently I have finished a new scale model. Although seemingly the aspect belongs to a normal model, with its weathering and effects, I should say that this Panzer supposed a very big challenge for my, because this was painted using acrylic paintings exclusively. You can believe that it is simple, but when you want to make stumped effects, fading or oxide stains, the task is very complicated. How to get that aspect so special that only the enamels or the oil can offer? For me it was a different project that never before had made it. And I should say that it is necessary to change the steps completely and to create a new order for the washes, chips, fading, etc.. But I think that this is a good alternative for many people that cannot work with enamels. It doesn't neither exist the strong scent to paint thinner.

I made this project for Vallejo ACrylics Company that has been the base for the creation of a new DVD that will be for sale soon.

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Recientemente he terminado una nueva maqueta. Aunque aparentemente el aspecto es de un modelo normal, con su envejecido y efectos, debo decir que este Panzer supuso un reto muy grande para mi, porque fue pintado utilizando exclusivamente pinturas acrilicas. Podeis creer que es sencillo, pero cuando quieres hacer efectos de difuminados, desgastes o manchas de óxido, la tarea es muy complicada. ¿Cómo conseguir ese aspecto tan especial que sólo los esmaltes o el óleo puede ofrecer? Para mí fue un proyecto diferente, que nunca antes lo había hecho. Debo decir que es necesario cambiar completamente los pasos y crear un nuevo orden para los lavados, desconchones, desgastes, etc..

Pero pienso que esto es una buena alternativa para muchos personas que no pueden trabajar con esmaltes. No existe tampoco el fuerte olor a aguarrás.

Filters, washes, fading, mud, rust, chips, metal effects, dust, etc...wwere made using only Vallejo Acrylic products.

Even decal applicators is acrilic based from Vallejo.

Water colors, Vallejo Acrylic washes, retarders and glazes was used during the process.

The DVD will be for sale in 1 month or 1 month and a half, and is available in English narration with spanish captions. This volume cover all areas of AFV modelling, from the base color to the last touches. I hope you like it.

Thanks

Mig Jimenez

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YOM KIPPUR T62 NEW BOOK

2010-03-04T23:26:00.007+01:00

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Finally a book has been published specifically about Yom Kippur War based on the T62. Although this book gathers all the aspects of the T62 and its variants, the main thematic is based on the use of the T62 under the Syrian and Egyptian army, during the Yom Kippur War. In my opinion, the Yom Kippur war was the battle where it was used the T62 and the T55 in more quantity. And of course this battle was the second bigger confrontation of tanks after the battle of Kurks. Also, the T62 was in that time of 1973, the best Soviet tank. Unfortunately, the Arab generals didn't know how to take out profit of this superiority and they lost the war. But inside the context of the modelling, the T62 is without a doubt a very interesting model to apply all type of camouflages. This new Robert Manasherob's book is indispensable for the new Trumpeter kit.

This great book contains blue prints of all the versions, original pictures of 1973 in the Sinai and in Golan, pictures of several T62 in museums and profiles with different camouflage versions. But it also contains several pictures in color of several destroyed T62. For followers of the Arab wars, this book is an inexhaustible source of ideas and inspiration, and the value of the unpublished pictures is incalculable. So it is moment of beginning my own T62. I no longer have excuses and I hope to be able to make the T62 OOB.
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Finalmente se ha publicado un libro especificamente sobre la guerra del Yom Kippur basado en el T62. Aunque este libro reune todos los aspectos del T62 y sus variantes, la principal temática está centrada en la utilización del T62 en el ejército Sirio y Egipcio, durante el Yom Kippur. En mi opinión, la guerra del Yom Kippur fue la batalla donde se utilizó el T62 y el T55 en mayor cantidad. Y por supuesto esta batalla fue la segunda mayor confrontación de tanques despues de la batalla de Kurks. Además, el T62 era en aquella epoca de 1973, era el mejor tanque sovietico. Por desgracia, los generales arabes no supieron sacar provecho de esta superioridad y perdieron la guerra. Pero dentro del contexto del modelismo, el T62 es sin duda un modelo muy interesante para aplicar todo tipo de camuflajes. Este nuevo libro de Robert Manasherob es imprescindible para el nuevo kit de Trumpeter.

Este gran libro contiene planos de todas las versiones, fotos originales de 1973 en el Sinai y en Golan, fotografias de varios T62 en museos y perfiles con distintas versiones de camuflaje. Pero tambien contiene varias fotografias en color de varios T62 destruidos. Para seguidores de las guerras arabes, este libro es una fuente inagotable de ideas e inspiración, y el valor de las fotografias ineditas es incalculable. Asi que es momento de comenzar mi propio T62. Ya no tengo excusas y espero poder hacer el T62 de caja.

I reccomend you to buy this book in his own web page.
Te recomiendo comprar este libro en la propia página del autor:

http://www.sabingamartin.com/

Thank you Robert for this great book. My dream come true.

Mig Jimenez

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JSU-152?

2010-02-24T21:25:00.006+01:00

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Once again, my friend Nobuo from Tamiya, sent me kindly the last kit: JSU152.
Only opening the box you can "smell" the quality of the pieces and the detail. Is necessary admit that Tamiya Team overcomes everything with each new model. Although some pieces of the kit are same ones than in the previous JSII, the new parts are extraordinarily fine and well modeled. But the great difference of the JSU152 with the JSII is that the first one can be located in Yom Kippur war or in "The six days war." And of course this it is the reason for which I should make reference to this kit. From now on I will go adding in this blog all the vehicles and information that I can find about Yom Kippur War and the participant vehicles. By now, until I get some accessories, I leave you here pictures of the JSU152 in the Museum of Volgograd (Stalingrad) that I photographed some years ago. I hope you like it!
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Una vez más, mi amigo Nobuo from Tamiya, me envió amablemente el último kit de la marca: JSU152. Solamente abriendo la caja puedes oler la calidad de las piezas y el detalle. Hay que admitir que Tamiya superan todo lo anterior con cada nuevo modelo. A pesar de que algunas piezas del kit son iguales que en el anterior JSII, las nuevas partes son extraordinariamente finas y bien moldeadas. Pero la gran diferencia del JSU152 con el JSII es que el primero puede ubicarse en Yom Kippur o en "la guerra de los seis dias". Y por supuesto esta es la razon por la que debo hacer referencia a este kit. Desde ahora iré añadiendo en este blog todos los vehiculos e información que pueda acerca de Yom Kippur y los vehículos participantes. De momento , hasta que consiga algunos accesorios, aqui os dejo fotos del JSU152 en el Museo de Volgograd (Stalingrad), que fotografié hace algunos años.

(The next model was made by my friend Shigeito Takeuchi)

Photos from Volgograd Museum:

Thanks for looking!!

Mig Jimenez

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WINTER TIME, 1/16th TAMIYA KVII

2010-02-02T11:26:00.009+01:00

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The winter subjects is one of my passions. I really like white vehicles because offer me a large range of possibilities about weathering or effects. You can paint a winter vehicle with dry dust or mud or very fresh one. You can apply a faded whitewash or a very clean white. You can make very evideny chips or scratches, rust or grease, and all kind of dirt or effects. In this case, with my last winter KVII, I wanted create a very worn or faded winter camo, result of a prolonged period of battles. Maybe this KV is going to the the Spring. The sun and the rain entried in action and the winter color is coming inapropiated. This is what I mede under this concept. I hope you like the result:

The technique used for this case is a complex combination of hairspray technique, oils fading, chips by brush and much more. Everything covered by a coat of dirt, rust and dust.

Is important create a combinations of "more dirt areas" and more white ones, in a way to keep a random look and make it more interesting and real. Avoid do the same in the whole model.

The same with green and white areas. Is important make a good contrast between very faded green areas and new white ones.

Tool box chipped with hairspray technique and covered with dust.

See how there are very dusty areas close to clean ones. This is important to give volume to the model.

For first time, I added a big cuantity of leaves and vegetation over the fenders, like I have seen in many pictures. In fact, is hard to find a picture with very clean mudguards. Obdserv how the dirt is acumulated in the corners.

WINTER MODELS

I wanted collect all my preview winter vehicles in this page, in a way to see the paint evolution. The next ones is an example of some of my old models which was a good source to get experience to paint the KVII in 1/16th scale. Some of them is really old, but I feel proud because in that time was good enought.

And that's all folks. Now I need a couple of day of vacations after paint the KVII. It was really hard because it should be finsihed for Nuremberg toy fair 2010. Fortunatly, I was on time and the Tamiya staff will be able to show it in their stand!

Thanks, Nobuo Yoshioka.

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MIG AT WORK

2010-01-20T20:23:00.005+01:00

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Hello friends. This is my frist post this year, and not because vacations (which was also long) but because I was very focus in a couple of projects.

The first one is one of my dreams, a T55 in Egyptian army, just after cross the Suez Chanel in 1973. This is a huge project because this version have many differences with standard T55, but also I wanted make it with PE and many upgrades. And finally, I will make the whole crew (4) in scratch. Now I have made only one, but it fit well and I am happy with the result. The KTM mineroller is another nightmare, beacuse it is trumpeter and is not like a Tamiya kit. BUt it is done, and now I am closer to finish this model. I will continue showing more steps of this one.

The second one is the well know KVII in 1/16th scale which I started months ago. The next photos is not the last stage, but I was not able to upload the last ones yet. Anyway, it is another funny project, even if I have a deadline. It must be ready for next Nurember Toy fair 2010, so...I am in a hurry. This is why I am so quiet the last weeks (my apologies friends).
The KVII is getting complex because the big surfaces, and is hard to create a nice general look like in 1/35th scale. In this big scales, the most difficult thing is to get used to this big sizes when we paint the effects. Is easy to fall down in the monotony and we must force our self to create big random areas in a way to make more realistic the finall look.
But the good thing is that the chip effects seems more realistic because the big size. Anyway, like all 1/16th scale models, it comsume a lot of time. To paint anything needs more than 4 times more than in 1/35.

I hope fin ish it on time for the end of this month and I will post some pictures here in my blog and another forums. Or you will be able to see it in Tamiya Stand next month in Germany.

And now, I must continue working with it. I cannot spend more time in my blog by now. Is time to finish the mud and the funny weathering, like oil, metal, rust....

Thank you for watching this and I will continue the blog very soon.

Mig Jimenez

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98% FINISHED KING TIGER

2009-12-16T14:58:00.005+01:00

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Fianlly I am able to show you the finished King Tiger. After two months work, the cat is almost done. I must add small details but the general look is almost finished. It is a Radio Control tank for a collector, so...many details was avoided, and others was impossible to add, but I am happy with the result.
The big size made this task a bit complicated to me, used to 1/72, 1/48 and 1/35...it is too big and need a lot of time for each process or step. Sometimes you get tired to paint chips or effects in all surface...but...this is the 1/16 scale.

Well, so..it is almost the end and I must go for my KVII, also in 1/16.

Thank you guys and I hope you like it.

MIG

That's all folks!

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MIA PROJECTS

2009-12-03T19:09:00.011+01:00

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Yes, I say Missing In Action projects and not unfinished projetcs, and it is because the next projects was missing for many reasons. Many people have email me asking about my Missing Sdkfz 221, which was...destroyed. So, I was thinking the last days about all projects that I started and that I was not able to finish, mainly because is not with me anymore. Some of them was part of my best projetcs, like my LVTP 5, which was 100% finished ready to paint...or a Koeningsberg scrap yard diorama in 1/72 th scale...or a K.O. T34 for a diorama with a PzIV. All of this never will be end even if it is a big pain to me, specially the 221 and the LVTP 5 , because it was specially dedicated to David Harper. About this one, I am only few pictures of the frist step by step...but it was ready and primed for paint, and even a nice base was made for it.

Well, if I try to restart my self in the modelling, I want to make a tribute to these models that I never will finish. I am very sorry, but...it is collaterle damage in my life. From this page, I say rest in pace to these models, which was part of me. Ok, also was my fault because I not finished them on time but now is too late for regreats.

Opss....ok, this 1/48 Tiger is the only one which I still have. But I will repaint it.

This KO T34 with VP kit and MIG kit was made for a diorama with a PzIV in russia.

It was ready for apint for the 1/72 Koenigsberg diorama.

This was a big lost for me. This small italian tank was a special project for my friend Daniele Guglielmi, from Italy, but I was not able to finish on time, and finally I lost it. It is a rare japanese resin kit. An authentic gem.

I don't want talk about this LVPT 5. It could be one of my best projects in my life....but now...is missing too. It was ready to paint, and the damage effects made over the whole vehicle was really cool. I just have few pictures of the frist steps. Sorry.

A KVI which I never finsished.

This Hetzer in 1/48 was a special thing for a Black and WHite diorama and some crazy ideas.

The van needed to be painted like a hippie van full of color, close to the BW hetzer...

The Scrap yard diorama in 1/72, full of captured T34 in 1945.

The only picture that I have: it was build by a friend from barcelona, and I painted it captured by soviets in Kurks with a very big cyrilic slogan. Jindra helped me with the translation in russian and Hajime from Japan made the decals for it. A pity....

A 1/16 th scale Tiger RC kit, painted like my small 1/48 Tiger.... (RIP)

An Sdkfz in 1/48 ready for paint in DAK... (MIA)

1/72 th scale BTR60 in Afghanistan...It was made for a big Antonov in 1/72. That plane was made by my friend Andres Montiel, but I was not able to finish the cargo goods for it. I am sorry. BTW, the Antonov is a monster in 1/72!!!! (note the contrasted panels in the smal BTR)

A little AMX10 in 1/72. A big diorama was made for it, almost finished, in Bosnia, 1991. (MIA)

Opss...I still have this, but not the diorama component that I was preparing. I will find another soluction for it.

And no words about it..... (RIP)

Another one...it never was finsihed, just painted in base color.

And that's all. I promese don't talk more about this subject. Now is time for new stuff. I am preparing new articles for my blog, so...stay tunned.!!

Thanks

MIG

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PAINTING A CIVIL VEHICLE

2009-11-30T18:45:00.023+01:00

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Just today I got an email from a friend (Jon Greenwood) asking me about how to paint a yellow vehicle, because he is making a diorama. He was asking me about my Wheel Loader, the one which I painted a couple years ago for my ex-company Mig productions. I made a nice Step by step of this original vehicle, longer than the one that I show here, but it never was published in any magazine. I expeted to make a cool diorama than Jenny (Aussine famous girl :-) suggested me long time ago. Even she sent me a lot of stuff to make it, but finally....that project was impossible to me. Fortunatly I still storing the pictures, so...I can make a small article for Jon and for all who can be useful, of course.

To paint a civil vehcile is not too different than to paint a tank. Except if the base color is GLOSSY, we can apply the rest of techniques in the same way than in amilitary vehicle. It also works with RED cranes or trucks, blue cars or vans, and much more...specially if the vehicle color is FLAT, like with a faded or very worn look. This is the case of this civil wheel loader.

It supposed to be in Iraq or any Middle east scenary, so I painted like with dry mud:

I painted the base color with HUMBROL ENAMELS, because this kind of paint is stronger than acrylic when you need to cover a big surface with a light color, like white or yellow. But you can use acrylics too. Try to paint the different components and panels with different shades of colors. This is very important!!:

Start the weathering adding some filters with enamels, like a kind of dark brown. Apply 2 or 3 coats of different shaes of brown or even a kind of grey brown to avoid a over-exposure to the brown look.

Now is time for washes. Try to be precise adding pin washes. Use a dark color for it. Clean the excess of wash color with a clean brush with a little turpentine:

Look here how I cleaned the excess of washes. Compare the upper picture with the picture right under this lines:

CHIPPING: Use a fine rbush to paint the frist chips, using an Acrylic light yellow:

Then, add over the preview chips, another ones in dark brown color using the same method:

Paint the ruber wheels with a dark grey color. Add a kind of "ring" around the hub using a light color mix of different tamiya colors as you can see in the picture. Also, paint with the same color some lower areas in your vehicle body. It will be a kind of pre-dust coat.

With a little pigment and FLAT varnish (vallejo model air), we can make some rian marks in a radial way, trying to make soft lines.

To paint the special look of the surface of the tire, we will do something different. Put a little matt varnish in a soft surface, like rubber or polyfoam.

Now, add different colors of pigments over the preview coat of varnish.

Before it is dry, handle the wheel and move it rolling over the foam impregned of pigment and varnish:

It will create a realistic and random effect like in real tires.

Use the same colors to make mud effects, appling directly the pigments or mixing it with varnish and splashing it over the hull. Finally you can add some drops of oil or fuel.

And...this is the final look. Is a very easy process, and not too different than paint tanks.

Of course, write your comments if you wish add more information or you have doubts. I hope you like it.

See you in the next one!!

Mig Jimenez

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SPONGE CHIPPPING AND RUST STAINS

2009-11-23T11:17:00.006+01:00

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I want continue adding some of the basic techniques to create a kind of librery or archive in a way to compilate the basic stuff but with a updated look. Now is time for another easy technique but which can offer us a nice result in all "old look" vehicles.
First, take a sponge, like the ones used for electronic componets packaging. Use just a piece of it to handle with your fingers, like I show in my photo:

Use a very dark brown color. Must be acrylic and if it is a bit satin, much better! Press down with your sponge over the color (withut any water added) and remove the excess of paint pressing the sponge over a paper tissue or cotton piece.

Press the sponge over all surfaces, specially hatches, details, rivets, hocks, corners... Do it in a random way.

And above, the final look. Of course, in a 1/16th scale is easier, and the look more realistic, but you can use this technique in 1/35th scale too, even in 1/48. You can combine the sponge chips with another chips painted with the same color but using afine brush.

Let's go now for rust stains, usually visible close to big chip areas. This time, we must use a red-orange oil color, like a light rust color. The contrast with the very dark chips will make it more realistic.

Using a small rounded brush, paint fine and vertical lines close to the big chipping areas. Do it again randomly. Some of the satins must be longer trhan others. Make small groups and place anothers in farest areas. Take care, don't over do it!

Now, using a plain brusgh type, stump the oil color with clean turpentine. Don't add too much turpentine to the brush or you will remove all oil stains. This process need a little practice, but afer stump 5 or 6 lines, you will find that it is not too complicated.

Some examples of the finished process. This chipping method is fast and very effective, specially if we are running out of time or if we need to cover big surfaces, as a big armored train, a militrary trailer or stuff like that.

I needed 4 days to cover all my 1/16 King Tiger.... but I was happy with the result.
Thank you for read this and more techniques coming soon.

Post your comments with questions or opinions here or even adding information to help others, please.

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HAIRSPRAY TECHNIQUE, Vol.1

2009-11-11T16:15:00.011+01:00

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Yes, one more time we must talk about hairspray technique, developed by Philip Stutcinskas long time ago and now pushed by Mike Rinaldi in his last models. In fact I was in touch with Mike long time ago in a way to improve my weak style with such technique. In the begining is not easy, and is hard to understand the whole concept. And even he still improving this method, testing and thinking about new aplications. But waht Mike say in few words is that the 3 basic points where we must base this technique is:

• hair spray quantity
• opacity of top layer of paint
• drying time of hair spray & paint

Now that I have a little more time, I want to go for this great technique and let me share with you some step by steps. Some months ago, I tried the basic way, that is Hairpray over an acrylic base color, like Tamiya or similar, and the second coat also acrylic, but using Life Color for that purpouse. My Sdkfz 222 was painted in that way. But, reciently I am trying with a hard and strong base color with humbrol enamels or Gaianotes laquer paints. My 1/16 King Tiger used this method:

To make this effect is so easy in 1/16, almost a natural and real way for chipping. The base color is Gaianotes, representing the Red Primer. The Gren color and Dark Yellow is Life color, and it represent the poor quality camo applied very fast in the last days in WWII.

Now, let's go to see the step by step in my "MIA" Sdkfz 222, painted with Tamiya and life color:

We can put the Hairspray liquid into a small jar for a easy use of it, applied with an airbrush. This is good in small scales.

When it is dry, we can apply the life color coat. Don't make it too thick, specially in very worn and faded vehciles, like Africa or Winter camos.

Then, we can apply a little water on the surface and start removing the last coat of dark yellow. We can use a fine brush for this task.

We must control very well in a way to avoid ugly chips or too big or too regular. They must be random and logical.

I recomend you combine this technqiiue with teh classic ones, because the Hairspray technique is good for a kind of chips , but not for faded effects. Use dry brush and a old brush to make this effect.

Finally, apply a varnish coat to the whole vehicle to protect the fragil base color. I used a soft coat of Tamiya Glossy varnish.

And finally the decals, transfers or wet transfers. FOX offer wet transfers, in my opinion the best way, because hve the good things from transfers and decals.

Well, this is just a frist aproach to this technique, but I will continue with it in the next months, specially in winter vehicles. I must practice more by my self, specially after my long stage without modelling, but you can follow the works from the two excellent modellers mentioned above.

To be continued...

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THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR SUPPORT

2009-11-06T18:35:00.002+01:00

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Uf...is amazing see how many of you have sent me your emails or messages with your support and good words. I have recived more than 200 emails from many of you helping me with all kind of comments and motivation, and trush me, it really help me to continue with this. Also...thanks to all people who posted messages in Missing-Lynx, Armorama, Panzernet or my ex-Mig forum (where I cannot post any reply or message ¿?¿?¿?...) for the nice words and comments.

This was not a Good bye to the modelling, but just a change of path. And after see the reaction of many of you (I recovered the contact with many of you since 5 or 6 years ago), I think that I am in the right way. I was the last tow days reading all your emails, and repling some of them, and I was shocked with all that you guys said. I feel lucky because I am sourronded of great modellers and good persons and this is all motivation that I needed.

I will continue repling your emails during the next days, and I can tell you that I am really happy to be in touch with many of you again.

Thank you very much...muchas gracias.

Mig Jimenez

This is the end...

2009-11-02T23:04:00.006+01:00

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Who remember the great movie "Good bye lenin"? Well, if you haven't see it, I highly recommend you. Is a history about a family living in the Democratic Germany just when the end of the two germanies, "the unification". This movie show the end of a long era, which was good for some ones and bad for others.

To me, the last July was the end of my age as creator of Mig Productions S.L.
Yes, I decided to finish a life of stress, bussines, marketing and why not, many, many successes. I started this company in 2002 in Barcelona. I was full of ideas and energy but I was just a modeller and I needed to learn a lot as business man. Many of you helped me in that task. Many of you supported me in the bad times. Other were collaborating with us in some projects and nowdays I can see how many of my ideas still fresh in the modelling comunity. I feel proud of that, and I can say that I feel satisface with what I made. The popular pigments, the filters, the washes, the burnt out vehicles and many original subjects was the column of this great project and all that I can say is THANKS all of you because you accepted what I suggested to improve the modelling. I was happy developing ideas, new produtcs which make easy our daily work with our models.

For a modeller like me, it was much more that I expected and I think that my task was done. But I don't want still living in this spiral of new releases with non sense, converting my own name in another aftermarket company. My goal was to provide soluctions and ideas, products to make easy our work, original subjects never seen before.....and that's all. But I fell that I cannot continue creating if I do that the rest of my life, so I decide that is time to leaving that company.

As I said before, I am not working any more for Mig productions since last July. My old account mig@migproductions.com is NOT MINE any more, so...if you send emails to that adress, I never will got them. All my models , kits, tools, projetcs and everything still inside so....if someone need something from me, or someone sent me any parcel or stuff, they must know that I am not able to recovery it. Also, don't ask me for furture Mig productions projects, ideas or collaborations, because since that month I haven't any relaction with the actual Mig productions staff, so...better ask them.

Just my name still remaining in that company, but seems it cannot be changed (burocracy?).

Now, I want to come back to the real modelling. I want to make dioramas and models again. I want to be focus 100% in new techniques, articles and help others if I can. Maybe my situation will be worse because I haven't a strong company giving me a monthly economic benefit, but now I fell more happy. I feel better. Probably I am more idiot now because I lost a money fountain, but trush me: When I go to bed, I haven't anything to be worry, just excited to wake up next morning to make models. I moved to another small city and I prepared a new workbench again, with new tools, new brushes...and some new kits. "Less is more."

I was born again the last July 2009. All that I wish in my life is paint models. This is my life.

Thank you very much to all who was helping me during the las 6 years.
To my ex-customers: Thank you very much from my hearth for your loyalty and professionality. I have meet great people during these years.

This is the movie poster, Good bye Lenin. No other thing can explain better my new situation that this movie, so...this is a small tribute. Like everything in our lifes, is necesary to move forward and forget the pass, in a way to improve our self and discover new horizonts.

Mig Jimenez

If you want contact me, this is my new email account: migjimenez75@gmail.com

Thanks

221 SCRATCH, RIP

2009-11-02T22:55:00.005+01:00

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A history of his short life...

Long time ago I decided to paint and finish a Sdkfz 221 made by Jens Fredericksen in Scratch. I was so happy painting it, because I found many pictures of this model under DAK service. But....unfortunatly, I never will be able to finish this model, and is a pity. This model was destroyed (and accident?). I keep several pictures of the step by step that I took when I was painting it, and I will publish here in the incoming weeks.

Of course, it was much better than the actual plastic kits.

I feel very sad....

RIP

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TAMIYA KV II, 1/16th scale

2009-11-02T22:49:00.002+01:00

This is the second 1/16 monster that I am currently building and painting. I will show more pictures of this new kit, but...by now, just note the size of the turret. Seems small?? Check my hand size close to the turret!! I think that I will need more than one tamiya jar to paint this surface. But is really cool to build this tank in such scale. I cannot wait to finish it.

I must explain that I was forced to build the turret without instructions sheet because it was a pre-production kit, but after the bad time dicovering where I must place each rivet, screw and metals parts, finally it's done!!

To be continue....

ACTUALLY PAINTING

2009-10-21T20:12:00.004+02:00

This is one of the two monsters which I am painting right now. This is the 1/16 Tamiya, with many improvements and metal accesories. I am exciting to try the Hairspray technique in such big scale, but could be very useful. Of course, I need to apply the hairpray directly from the can!!! It was applied between the read base color (ENAMEL) and the Dark Yellow (LIFECOLOR).

I wil add more steps soon.

WELCOME

2009-10-06T12:55:00.001+02:00

Long time without publish my work in internet, but now I stay on line again. I decided to create my own blog to show my last works, opinions, techiques and more stuff and stay in touch with many of you friends.

Today, I start a new carrier, alone. I am a modeller again and I try to recovery all passion and motivation which were inside me long time ago. I want to be focus in the modelling one more time, in the techniques (which is my real passion), and in new ideas. I was tired of comercial stuff and other boring things, and now I feel free to do what I really want.

Welcome to my new blog and I hope you can share with me your opinions or doubts, and I hope also help you if you need me.

Thank you very much.

Mig Jimenez